Tradition bound Udappu, the charm of a Tamil village

by Dushiyanthini Kanagasabapathipillai

“Udappu” is situated between the Dutch Canal in the East, Indian Ocean in the West, Poonaipitty village in the North and Pinkatti village in the South. According to some reports, that there was a flood in this area earlier, and it was called “Udaippu” afterwards. Another report says that people were looking for pure water and sea side, while searching for such place they found “Udaippankarai”. Later, the name derived from “Udaippu” to “Udaippankarai” to “Udappu”, which is currently being called.

This is a traditional Tamil fishing hamlet, which is situated 150kilometers away from the commercial capital Colombo. A sandy stretch road which is about six kilometers off the Colombo to Puttlam main highway takes to Udappu. It is located on a tip of rectangular shape land between Mundal lake and the sea. Udappu’s current population is 15,000. It’s is believed that their ancestors came from Akka Madam and Thangachchi Madam in Rameshwaram in Southern India in 1630, and settled down in Udappu. This small fishing village has a very strong tradition and custom, which is being followed very strictly by the people of Udappu upto now. The fishing folk of this pristine coastal village has a different custom compared to the other fisher folk in the country. They still follow the same tradition which is being followed in Rameshwaram for weddings, funerals and temple festivals. Drama and theatre and folk songs play a major role while observing these traditions. The vibrant tradition keeps the families close to each other.

[Drawings of the seven boats. The drawings are placed on the wall of the Sri Veerapaththirakaali Amman temple]

It is said that due to some ethnic tension in 16th Century, 18 families from Udappu went to Aanai Vaasal and Karaiyaar Kudiyiruppu in Katpitty in 7 fishing boats. The portraits of these 7 fishing boats are drawn on the wall of Sri Veerapththirakaali Amman temple in Udappu. The fishing boats are identified as “Sinnadappan Thoni”, “Sinna Thoni, “Mugaanthiram Thoni”,“Kappanaa Thoni”, “Vaavaa Thoni”,and “Poththi Thoni”. And those 18 families are known as “Ampalakaaran”, “Sinnadappanpuram”, “Kathiran Sammaattipuram”, “Sinnaiyanpuram”, “Kaamapuram”, “Aavaththaaarpuram”, “Pachchaiyappanpuram”, “Seruvanththaarpuram”, “Moosaapuram”, “Paasamandaadi Kudumbam”, “Muththupillaipuram”, “Palliyar Kudumbam”, “Sittampuram”, “Sinnaandipuram”, “Kottaavaariyaar Kudumbam, and “Moovar Kudumbam”.

[calm and quiet place]

Most of them are fishermen, some do farming or small business such as owning a grocery shop or tailor shop or a telephone booth or an eating house. And some are vegetable sellers or meat sellers. The people of Udappu read and recite the Mahabharatham epic in Tamil. The “Aadi Vizha Mahotsavam” of the Rukmani Sathyapama Sametha Sri Paarthasaarathy Thiraupathathevi Devasthaanam is based on the popular epic Mahabharatham, which lasts for 18 days. Dance and drama are performed during these days to attract the devotees and make them understand the epic better. The whole village comes alive during the festival. Udappu is usually known as a very calm and quiet place.

People of Udappu are very entertaining and hospitable. The first invitation that they always extend to a visitor is “Come to our house and have meals”. Then the conversation follows with several other invitations such as “Come and stay with us in our house”, “Please feel free to ask anything that you need”, “We have made these special curries for you, because you are a pure vegetarian”, “Please let us know when will you be here next time, so that we can make your stay comfortable”, “Take some fresh drum sticks and fresh Jasmine flowers with you when you return to your house in Colombo”. They do not show any difference between a visitor and a stranger, they treat both equally. It is a beauty of the people in Udappu that, the invitation is always extended wholeheartedly.

The men in Udappu say that “They have “Murattu Bhakthi” (pitiless or rough devotion) towards the Goddess”. They say that they are willing to go through any pain in order to fulfill her (Goddess’s) wishes. They gather in groups to carry out the rituals. Most of the men are fisher folks. They are known for their hard work and dedication. Women of Udappu are very passive and soft-spoken. Men and women of Udappu are very spiritual, and they observe the knit tradition very carefully. The people of Udappu are very proud of their more than 350 years old unique and elegant tradition. The people of Udappu insist that they neither belong to the North and East of Sri Lanka nor to the hill country. They always say that, they are different from the rest of the Tamil community in the country. They mostly worship Sri Thiraupathai Amman, Sri Kaali Amman and Sri Maari Amman. These three Goddesses are considered to be the Kula Theivam (Family Guardian Deities) of Udappu. A strict vegetarian regimen is observed during the time of the temple festival.

If a man marries outside Udappu, he will be detached from the family and community, and his mustache will be shaven completely to humiliate him. The custom is called “Meesai Kattal”. As a result hardly any men marry outside his village, and the entire population believes that they need to maintain the speciality. Men folks respect the women folks. The men extend their extra care and support to the women during the festival time, because they feel that men from outside visit Udappu during the festival, and the unique culture needs to maintained and protected, and there should not be any room left for misbehaviors and misconducts.

[Multi-ethnic market in Udappu]

There are 30 Muslim families currently living in Udappu. Sinhala traders from Aaraachchikattu, Aaandigama and Vijayakattupeththa come daily to the main market in Udappu to sell vegetables. They come very early in the morning in a lorry and return to their respective villages after the business. The primary vocation of Udappu was tobacco cultivation, the tobacco plants were affected due to some disease. Thereafter, the people of Udappu began to concentrate on prawn hatchery. There is a couple of medical doctors and engineers produced from Udappu.

[a busy alley in Udappu]

A couple of visitors from Jaffna shared their experiences while being in Udappu this year. Most of them said that, “We feel like Udappu is their second home next to Jaffna. And, we like to retire in Udappu”. It gives the similar feeling of being in Jaffna, surrounded by coconut and palmyrah trees, mild breeze with the sweet sound of the palm leaves, even though it is hot. The fences for the houses are woven neatly with either coconut or palmyrah leaves. The houses hardly have brick or cement walls. Most of the houses are shady and cool.

The people of Udappu like to remain different, while some of the young men left the village to seek employments in foreign countries. Some of them come annually during the festival time to take part in fire walking. This is when most of the match making takes place in Udappu!

Time for celebration and joy.

Related Pictorials on Udappu:

- “Paandavar Oorvalam”:

The scene of five Paandava Princes and their common wife Thiraupathai going into exile with Vyasa Munivar and an Anuman was depicted in drama form by the people of Udappu on 2nd of August 2009, the 15th day of the “Aadi Vizha Mahotsavam” of Rukmani Sathyapama Sametha Sri Paarthasaarathy Thiraupathathevi Devasthanam.

- behind the scene: Getting ready for the colourful Udappu parade:

It was a Sunny Sunday, August 2nd 2009, in Udappu.

As time ticked on turning into a scroching hot day, performers and the make-up artists began to make their way to Sri Veerapaththirakaali Amman temple, situated right near the ocean.

Eleven Performing artists and four make-up artists gathered under one roof, to get ready for the elegant parade.

- Fire walking Festival:

Rukmani Sathyapama Sametha Sri Paarthasaarathy Thiraupathathevi Devasthanam, Udappu
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HumanityAshore.org ~ Email: dushi.pillai@gmail.com

22 Comments

  1. Ciero says:

    Thank you for the info on Udappu. Rich tradition and heritage and everything that is said making me wanting to visit.

  2. Anu says:

    Wonderful. feels visited there.

  3. Santhi says:

    Dushi had charmed us, by this charming story of Udappu not known to many Udappu is now on the map. We hope and wish to vsit this charming village the next time we vsit Sri Lanka and watch the Fire walk but wonder if we can see “Pandavar oorvalam” unless its staged again if its on DVD please let us know where it could be got.

    Thank you Dushi you are Great.

  4. Raj says:

    Dushi
    Though I was lived in colombo since 1974, until I came to UK in 2001, I do not know about Udappu. I was a case worker and did many udappu boy’s case work on their immigarion. I was surpised to hear the real tamil names they had and all of them are very religious and very friendly. I never see such a nice boys in many parts of Sri lanka.
    Thanks for your contribution abuot udappu
    Raj

  5. Savi - Chennai says:

    Nice to know of traditions and how being followed thru now in this village.

  6. Ilaya Seran Senguttuvan says:

    Dushi,

    Keep going. This is lovely. An organisation I played a major role in (1994-2000)helped the people of this village in maintaining their Hindu traditions. I believe they are still active there. Though I always wanted to, I never made it there. Your beautiful piece rekindles my unrealised resolve. When I plan to make it there I will contact you. I notice from a recent mail Sivanandini D is a common factor between us.

    All good wishes for your wonderful work to unite the friendly people of Sri Lanka

    ISS

  7. R. Maran says:

    Great work Dushi. Hope to visit there one day when the dust settle down.

  8. VL says:

    Thank you, very pleasant how people of Udappu are maintaining culture and celebrations. Visiting there in time for next year festivals.

  9. Kumar says:

    Thank you for the pix and article. I am eager to visit the place too.

  10. Kathir says:

    Dear Comrade, I always appreciate your dedicated service to the people and to the country.There are a few people who can think in terms of beauty and the people.Your photography is amazing and excellent.These are the important documents we have to keep it for ever.Please bring all the hidden informations in a scientific and researching manner.I hope that your research will induce the people to go for a visit to Udappu in the future.

  11. Anan says:

    “The people of Udappu read and recite the Mahabharatham epic in Tamil”
    Does it imply they don’t read & speak Tamil?
    Sometimes we keep the traditions but not the language. Someone lets know.
    Thanks Dushiyanthini. Keep writing about other parts of Sri Lankas hidden rich cultural treasures.

  12. cj says:

    hi dushi,
    i have been reading your articles regularly in variuos news papers published in uk and websites in sl. great stuff. keep going.

    regards.
    cj

  13. Dissanayake says:

    Dushyanthi

    Thanks for the article.

    Your article took me back to our motherlnad once more. I have been to this flambouyant village once while visitng a friend in Puttlum.

    Although I now choosed to live in a western country, my mind still lives among these type of villages in Sri Lanka.

    Dushyanthi – Keep your pen moving for more stories aboth such fascinating places.

  14. Noel says:

    Dushyanthini Thanks for the article. When I was the Manager of a local bank in Chilaw, I was always invited for the festival. This invitation was extended to me by a Gentleman called Sittampalam who was the Chairman at that time.This was between 1970 and 1974. I wonder whether this gentleman is alive.

    I had very happy memories of that time. I now live abroad and hope that I would be able to visit Uddapu again.

    • Dineish says:

      Hi Mr. Noel,
      I am Mr Sittampalam’s grandson. Very nice to see my grandfather’s name randomly on a website about Udappu/Chilaw. Glad you have happy memories of those times.
      He passed away few years ago in Chilaw.
      Regards,
      Dineish

  15. Ranjit says:

    Very nice article. Its a long time since a I last visited Udappu. About ten years ago, water was very scare in the village and I have seen women digging small holes on the beach and collecting water. I wonder how the situation is now.

    Another feature I noticed then was that many women walked beyond the Colombo-Puttalam main road to find work and collect firewood. In the afternoons and evenings groups of women could be seen walking back to the village. I wonder whether their economic situation has improved.

  16. bala says:

    happy to sewa an article about udappu.I had the previlage of enjoing the hospitality of the peolpe of. Mr. Kandasamy who was achairman was a close friend and his son studied in jaffna centarl college and his daufggter in jaffn convent. When i worked in M.O.H office chilaw I had the rae oppourtinity to visit this place Thre is a rural hospital and a maternity.The firwe walking ceremonty was an where thed entire male mebers of the community walk through the b urning embers.I wish dushanthi to wwritwe more about your village. I cant forget Villupaddu venthan master somaskandan who made udappu know

  17. pen4harmony says:

    Your article and photos are fantastic.it show the love for our country.can I ask you , can you please write us an article on tranditional hindu weddings…not the other hindu but sri lankan hindu wedding.

    looking forward to read it. thanks in advance.keep writing

  18. Maya says:

    After reading your article, I recently visited Udappu. It is an unforgettable experince. Thanks for kindling my interest in this village and its rich culture.

  19. rperin says:

    A map of the island putting Udappu in it would be helpful to readers.
    This is good work and thanks for giving the coomunity all this attention.
    I am sure some anthrpologist is already planning to studu the community!

  20. Nona says:

    I enjoyed your beautiful photoes!

    “Patrons, Devotees and Goddesses ; Ritual and Power among the Tamil Fishermen of Sri Lanka” written by Masakazu Tanaka, a Japanese anthropologist, must be interesting for you.

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